How to Test the Solenoid

If you’re not hearing any noise when you turn the key, and you've confirmed the battery is charged and healthy, the next place to check is the solenoid. This small part acts like a bridge, allowing electricity to flow from the battery to the starter. If it’s not working properly, the engine won’t crank.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to testing the solenoid using a multimeter.

Step 1: Identify the Solenoid Terminals

Before testing, make sure you’re connecting to the right spots. Most solenoids have two large threaded posts:

• BATTERY Terminal: Connected directly to the battery’s positive post with a thick cable.

• STARTER Terminal: Runs to the starter motor with another thick cable.

Get familiar with which is which so you don’t misread your results.

🔋 Step 2: Check for Voltage at the Battery Terminal

Goal: Confirm that the solenoid is receiving power from the battery.

Instructions:

1. Set your multimeter to DC Volts (20V setting or auto-ranging).

2. Touch the black probe to a clean metal ground:

   • Battery negative post

   • Engine block

   • Frame/chassis

3. Touch the red probe to the solenoid’s BATTERY Terminal.

What You Should See:

• A healthy battery will read 12.4–12.8 volts.

• If you see nothing or less than 10 volts, your issue may be with the battery, terminals, or wiring—not the solenoid.

🧪 Step 3: Test Continuity Across the Large Terminals

Goal: See if the solenoid is making a connection when the key is turned.

⚠️ Important: Disconnect the battery’s negative terminal before testing for resistance or continuity.

How to Test When the Solenoid Is at Rest (Key NOT Turned):

1. Set your multimeter to continuity or Ohms (Ω) mode.

2. Place one probe on each large post.

3. You should read:

   • No continuity ("OL" or infinite resistance) — that’s normal when the solenoid isn’t activated.

Now Test While the Solenoid Is Energized (Key Turned to START):

1. Reconnect the battery’s negative cable.

2. Have a helper hold the key in the START position.

3. With your probes on the same two large posts:

   • In continuity mode, the meter should beep.

   • In Ohms mode, the reading should drop to 0.2 ohms or less.

If the solenoid doesn't show continuity when the key is turned, it's likely faulty and needs replacement. But if it checks out and you're still getting no crank from the key, your issue may be with the Key and Switch Assembly (Part #01-02-1978).