Sometimes removing the impeller during a repair can be challenging, especially if your Cyclone Rake is older and rust has built up between the impeller hub and the shaft. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you tackle this task safely and effectively:
Removing a Stuck Impeller
Step 1: Choosing the Right Tool
For 5, 6, 6.5, or 7 HP engines: Remove the impeller bolt and insert the puller bolt directly into the impeller.
For 8, 9, or 10 HP engines: Insert the steel dowel pin first before using the puller bolt.
Once the tool is in place, slowly turn the puller bolt. The impeller hub should begin to walk off the shaft.
Step 2: Addressing Rust Issues If the impeller doesn't move or only shifts partway, rust may be the cause. Try these steps:
Apply a rust-dissolving lubricant like WD-40, PB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench generously to the hub and shaft area. If possible, apply it from the back.
To improve penetration, carefully tilt the engine so the lubricant can run down the shaft.
Allow several hours for the lubricant to work before attempting removal again.
Step 3: When to Seek Professional Assistance If the impeller remains stuck after following these steps, consider professional help:
A machine shop, tire shop, or auto repair shop may have the right tools to assist.
They can use a 1/2" bolt with an impact gun to apply additional force safely.
Their specialized equipment and expertise can help remove a stubborn impeller without damaging the assembly.
Understanding Our Engine Shaft Design
The Cyclone Rake uses a 1" diameter, keyed shaft with a 3" reveal. This robust design has been our standard since 1997 and was selected for several important reasons:
Durability: The larger shaft provides exceptional strength in harsh operating environments where the system regularly encounters various materials beyond just leaves and grass.
Longevity: We design our products to last for decades - many Cyclone Rakes from the late 1990s and early 2000s are still in service today.
Reliability: The 1" shaft works for all users, from homeowners who use their Cyclone Rake occasionally to commercial users who operate it daily.
While other manufacturers may use smaller shafts, we've chosen not to compromise on this critical component that contributes to the exceptional durability of the Cyclone Rake.
Note: We do NOT recommend using sleeves to adapt smaller shafts or using engines not supplied by us, as these modifications may affect performance and void your warranty.
Have Questions? We're Here to Help!
Our team is always happy to assist. Whether you'd like to call, schedule a callback, or send us a message through our Contact Us form, we're ready to help!
FAQ
What are the dimensions, size, and clearance details for Cyclone Rake impellers?
Our impellers come in three types: 4-Blade Yellow (14.1" diameter), 5-Blade Orange (14.1" diameter), and 5-Blade Green (15.1" diameter). All impellers are approximately 3⅞" thick at the blade edge. When stopped, the clearance between the impeller and liner is about 1" (width of two fingers), though this decreases slightly when spinning at 3200 RPM. Technical specifications include a 1.01" bore diameter and ¼" key stock.
What direction do I turn the Allen wrench to get the impeller bolt off?
The impeller bolt uses standard threading (turn left to loosen, right to tighten) but requires the hex-bit socket we provide. If needed, you can purchase a 5/16" hex bit for green blower housings or 3/8" hex bit for yellow ones. Never use an L-shaped Allen wrench as it won't provide enough torque and risks stripping the bolt head. For stubborn bolts, tilt the blower with the impeller facing upward, apply Liquid Wrench around the bolt head and washers, then let it sit for a few hours before trying again.
Is the impeller a right-hand or left-hand thread?
The impeller bolt uses a right-hand thread, which is the standard type. That means: Turn clockwise to tighten, and counterclockwise to loosen—just like the old “righty tighty, lefty loosey” saying.
What kind of grease should I use on my impeller?
Use regular anti-seize or copper-based anti-seize. Both types work well and are easy to find at hardware stores. One good option is Loctite 51001 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize, available online.
Has there ever been a black impeller?
Yes—older XL and Z-10 models originally came with a black impeller. In March 2011, it was replaced with the current green version, designed for longer life and easier identification. The green impeller is fully compatible with machines that originally used the black one.
Need a replacement? You can find it here:
Green Impeller with Hardware Kit – Part #02-03-023
What is the correct torque for tightening an impeller?
The proper torque specification for your Cyclone Rake's impeller bolt is 40 foot-pounds (ft-lbs).